Khoresh karafs is a Persian celery stew made with lamb, fresh mint, parsley and a squeeze of lemon, cooked on the stovetop until the meat is tender and the herbs have melted into a thick, fragrant stew. It can be made vegetarian, and most of the cooking time is hands-off. Serve it with Persian white rice for a complete Iranian dinner.

 

Why I Love Khoresh Karafs

My mom made Khoresh karafs regularly in summer when fresh mint was at its most abundant. I remember watching her chop the herbs with such care, and the smell of mint and parsley hitting a hot pan is something I still associate with home. It was always one of my favorites growing up.

When I moved to Turkey years ago I couldn’t find celery stalks anywhere, only celery root, which is a completely different ingredient, so this stew quietly disappeared from my table. Once I moved to the US it came back into regular rotation and has been there ever since. It’s one of those recipes I never get tired of.

One thing worth saying before we get into the recipe: in Persian cuisine, herbs are not garnish. They are the main ingredient. The mint and parsley in this stew are not sprinkled on top, they go in by the cupful and get cooked down into the base of the dish. This is true across Persian cooking, from ghormeh sabzi to ash reshteh (Persian noodle soup) to this stew. If you’re new to Iranian food, that’s the most important thing to understand.

What Is Khoresh Karafs?

Khoresh, sometimes written as khoresht, is the Persian word for stew. It refers to a whole category of slow-cooked dishes that form the backbone of Iranian home cooking, always served alongside rice. Karafs means celery in Persian, so khoresh karafs is literally celery stew.

It’s worth noting how this stew differs from ghormeh sabzi, since the two are often compared. Both are herb-forward Persian lamb stews, but ghormeh sabzi uses dried fenugreek, dried lime and red kidney beans, giving it a darker and more complex flavor. Khoresh karafs is lighter and brighter, with a clean celery bite and no beans. If you love ghormeh sabzi, this is absolutely worth trying

Ingredients

Celery stalks: The star of this Persian celery stew. Cut into roughly 1 1/2 inch pieces, not too small or they’ll lose their texture during the long cook. If your bunch came with leaves, chop those in too.

Fresh mint: This is what gives the stew its distinctive Persian herb stew flavor. Don’t overdo it though, too much mint tips into bitterness. Follow the recipe ratio.

Fresh parsley: Works alongside the mint to build the herby base. Always use fresh for this recipe. Dried parsley will not give you the same result.

Lamb stew meat: My preference and what I grew up eating. Lamb suits the herbs in a way that feels completely right for this dish. Beef stew meat works well too, but if you can get lamb from a halal butcher or good butcher counter, use it. Cut into roughly one inch pieces.

Onion: The base of almost every Persian stew. This builds the flavor foundation of the stew and cannot be rushed.

Turmeric: A small amount, added with the meat at the beginning. It gives the stew warmth and a gentle golden color without overpowering the herbs.

Lemon juice: Added at the very end. Half a lemon is all you need. It lifts the stew, brightens the herbs and balances the richness of the lamb.

How To Make Persian Celery Stew

Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the celery and cook it for a few minutes until it’s glossy. Add in the mint and parsley and sauté for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the herbs darken and become deeply fragrant. The smell at this stage should be intensely herby, that’s exactly what you want. Turn the heat off and set aside.

In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium high heat. Add the onion and cook until deeply golden, about 10 minutes. Don’t rush this step.

Add the lamb, turmeric salt and pepper. Sauté until the meat is browned on all sides, about 5 to 7 minutes. It doesn’t need to be fully cooked through at this stage.

Add the sautéed celery and herbs to the pot and stir everything together. Pour in 5 cups of water and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook on medium heat for a little over an hour, until the lamb is completely tender and the celery has softened but still has a slight bite.

Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, stir, and taste. Adjust salt as needed. If the stew looks too thick add a little more water half a cup at a time. Serve warm with Persian white rice or saffron rice.

Serving Suggestions

Khoresh karafs is always served with rice in Iranian homes. The stew needs the rice to absorb into, and the rice needs the stew to give it flavor and moisture. My recommendation is Persian saffron rice or plain Persian white rice with a golden tahdig crust.

If you’re putting together a larger Persian spread, this pairs well alongside other khoresh dishes like fesenjan or khoresh bademjan.

Frequently Asked Questions

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